There's so much more to Austin than BBQ.
As the spouse of a Texan, I traveled the length and breadth of the Lone Star State before settling in its capital city, Austin. Centrally located, it drew me in for a number of reasons. First, I found it to be very inclusive–in Austin, y’all actually means y’all, and where no matter how you identify, you’re genuinely welcomed and supported by the locals. And then there’s everything else: a great climate (it’s far less humid than Houston), brilliant accessibility to nature, a buzzing live music scene, and being one of the smaller of the major Texas cities, possible to navigate without a car (for the most part). For travelers who have decided on Austin, know that you’ve made an excellent choice.
Here are my picks for the best things to do, what to avoid, where to stay and eat, plus a few handy tips to have a swell time.
Often referred to as “Bat City,” Austin is the spring/summer residence of migrating bats, which travel from Central Mexico to roost along the U.S. southwest. Each night from the end of March to early October, a fluttering spectacle of around 1.5 million bats emerging from under Congress Avenue Bridge draws an eclectic crowd. Join them on the banks of Lady Bird Lake (everyone knows the best spot is in front of The Line hotel—also home of a popular Veracruz All-Natural taco counter—so get there early!), but if you don’t mind getting wet, rent a SUP or do a kayak tour with GetYourGuide. The best thing about this outdoor activity? There’s no need to lather on repellent. The bats eat between 10,000 to 30,000 pounds of insects each night, including mosquitoes.
Walking? In Texas?! Yup, you heard that right. Downtown Austin is one of the rare parts that’s completely walkable, and you’ll absolutely want to take advantage of the awesome museums and attractions dotted throughout the ATX core. Start at the Texas State Capitol, the largest state capitol in the United States, then mosey on down Congress Avenue to The Contemporary Austin – Jones Center for modern art exhibits, and the Mexic-Arte Museum to discover traditional and contemporary Mexican, Latin, and Latin-American art. Of course, it wouldn’t be Austin without something a little more out there. Head west onto Sixth Street for the Museum of the Weird, a bonkers collection of oddities spanning horror movie props, waxworks, and, um, two-headed baby cows. The gift shop out front also has some equally unique souvenirs.
I’ve said it once, and I’ll say it again: Austin is an outdoor lover’s playground. Unlike the rest of Texas, where you’re often confined to a mall for most of your physical activity, you can hike every corner of the city, including the Ann and Roy Butler Hike-and-Bike Trail, which loops past downtown and the verdant Barton Creek Greenbelt. Since we’ve already got our step count in the museums, how about a picnic? Make like a local and stock a big cooler full of all your faves from Texas supermarket H-E-B, then kick back in popular Zilker Park to the south, or the spectacular Mount Bonnell in the north, where you can climb 102 steps to Austin’s highest publicly accessible point for a view over the lake and city.
You can’t visit Texas without getting the meat sweats, and Austin is always smokin’ brisket and pork sausages that’ll have you scoffing till your sides hurt (but hey, it’s worth it!). Franklin Barbecue may be the most famous, but in my opinion, it’s massively overrated and not worth standing forever in line for. According to long-time locals, the best barbecue’s always been a three-way battle between Leroy and Lewis (best for the pulled whole hog), La Barbecue (best for the brisket and the beef ribs), and Terry Black’s Barbecue (a Texas chain but still a fantastic all-rounder). If you’re the FOMO kind, I say go on a meat quest of East and South Austin and sample all three. Just remember to wear loose-fitting pants.
Austin’s heavily promoted marketing slogan, “The Live Music Capital of the World,” may not be factually correct, but this is certainly, at least, the “live musical capital of Texas.” Music lovers can enjoy stellar sounds on any given night of the week, where it’s less about established artists and more about raw and unsigned talent. If you’re down for discovering your new fave artist, drop a pin at Antone’s for blues and soul, The Continental Club for rock and alternative, and Waterloo Records, an iconic local record store that hosts live events and signings either for free or at the price of a CD.
In Austin, women, racial minorities, and the LGBTQ+ community feel safe and accepted. Support the cause by shopping at establishments such as The Little Gay Shop where you can get “y’all means all” merch and art; Nina Berenato Jewelry, Austin’s only all-girl metalsmithing studio selling products that empower women (Beyonce is a customer!), and brilliant indie book stores such as BookWoman and Black Pearl Books. You can also splash your cash on Fourth Street’s rainbow-colored bars (best during Pride month) or the gift shops of the George Washington Carver Museum and the Mexic-Arte Museum.
How do Austinites enjoy the great outdoors during the brutal summer months? Answer: Barton Springs. The natural pool within Zilker is filled with fresh water from nearby underground springs, maintaining a constant temperature of 68 to 70 degrees all year round. When the sun is beating down, this really is just the medicine, but be warned, spots quickly fill up, so arrive early if you plan on a day of dip ‘n’ sip (and remember to bring a blanket). The fee is $9 for non-residents, and those traveling with fur babies should note that pets are not allowed. Instead, adjacent, on the other side of the fence, a rocky-bottomed lake offers a similar experience for folks with their pooches to cool down, and it’s completely free of charge.
Another way to beat the Texas heat is to hit the rooftop pools. Every downtown apartment and hotel has one, and in ATX, that often is where the party is at. The best rooftops to sport your snazziest swimwear with a cocktail in hand include Fairmont Austin’s palm tree-lined pool on the west edge; Hotel Van Zandt’s pool which has a fireplace(just in case nightfall gets chilly); Austin Proper Hotel’s chic Second Street district pool; and Hotel ZaZa’s pool, whose bar does very generous pours of wine. In most cases, you can visit by simply making a reservation for the bar; however, if you want to park all afternoon long and swim, then check out ResortPass to see which pools offer day passes for non-staying guests.
In line with the ”Keep Austin Weird” ethos, we have an activity that I doubt even the most seasoned of travelers have tried: Chicken Sh*t Bingo. The Little Longhorn Saloon has been holding the game every Sunday from 4 p.m. to 8 p.m. for decades, and there never seems to be a shortage of patrons lining up to watch hens take a dump. How it works is you pay a small donation ($2 or $5) and get a ticket with a number corresponding to one on a table. If the chicken poops on your number, you win a prize. While waiting, a fully stocked bar and live band keep all entertained, and even the kids can come play the game. You’ll never look at a rotisserie the same way again.
Texas is big on sports, and while Dallas has the Cowboys (NFL), Houston has the Astros (MLB), and San Antonio has the Spurs (NBA), Austin’s never had a major professional sports league team… until 2021, when Austin FC played its first MLS game. Finally, Austinites had a jersey and a swanky new stadium to congregate. You can nab tickets for a home game at the Q2 Stadium up in The Domain and join the sea of greens that cover the city, and no matter the score, it’s always a fun time.
All my Austinite pals (and even my proud Dallas mother-in-law) are never complimentary about Texan wine, but what they all do appreciate is that it’s here, it’s readily available, and it’ll get you absolutely sloshed. For anyone traveling with a gaggle of pals in search of a road trip plan, I highly recommend a weekend in the beautiful Texas Hill Country, where you’ll sample grape juice varieties you’ll want to swiftly forget. Because when it comes to Texan wine, the golden rule is this: never take it seriously and always take big gulps. This ain’t France, y’all!
Austin is a young and fun city, with a huge portion of locals big on outdoor recreation. Add sweltering conditions, and you’ll seldom see a suit in town (unless there’s a conference on at the convention center), but more likely, swimwear and activewear. Leave the stuffy jacket and shiny shoes at home, and know that even in the poshest of establishments, a relaxed attitude prevails. I’ve gotten away with shorts and flip flops at the Live Oak bar in the Four Seasons, and even at upscale steakhouse Garrison, comfy chinos and loafers sufficed.
Sixth Street is a major destination for two kinds of revelers: students and bachelor parties. If your crew falls into those categories, then sure, you’ll have a riot with $2 brat green shots that might frazzle your insides. However, those looking for debauchery in the company of Texas wine (see above), tasty tacos, and decent live music should look elsewhere. May I suggest Rainey Street, a.k.a. “grown-up Sixth Street,” Hippie East Austin, and the neon rainbow bars of Fourth Street? I’m not saying avoid Sixth Street completely—it has decent restaurants and a couple of nice bars—but if you’re a graduate, maybe steer clear of the puke puddles after midnight.
You’ve already gone down a classic barbecue route, but in Texas, there’s always more meat where that came from. Banger’s Sausage House & Beer Garden focuses on the two elements. First and foremost, the scratch-made sausage, of which the team cranks out around 30 varieties such as the odd-but-they-work Duck, Bacon & Fig, and Chicken & Apple. Then there are over 100 beers on tap to wash down the bratwursts with, available by the pint or liter. The open-air venue on Rainey Street regularly strums live country music and has great vibes all around. If you’re as partial to a sausage as I am, you’ll love it.
Whilst neighboring Houston gets all the glory when it comes to Asian cuisine in Texas, we’ve got to hand it to Jam Sanitchat, who came to ATX in 2001 and brought authentic Thai recipes to awaken our sleepy senses. Her Pad Thai and Drunken Noodles are plucked right out of Bangkok, and the Panang Curry is so deliciously fragrant and creamy. She also makes her own vegan ice creams in-house using a coconut milk base and seasonal fruits. Seriously, Thai Fresh is the real deal, and I love that everything is sourced locally, and the staff are all paid a fair wage, so tipping is not required.
Garrison is the steakhouse that continues to deliver, offering Austinites an upscale experience without the stuffiness. The star here is the Texas post oak flame-grilled steak, either Rib Eye or Porterhouse, but they also grill a tasty Lamb Loin, Texas Redfish, and Mushroom Katsu. Veggie sides are locally grown from Austin fields, and the Pineapple Brûlée is a refreshing sweet spot to end on. A robust wine list completes the swoonsome experience, but if you want to make sparks really fly, head up to Room 725 of the Fairmont Hotel (in which Garrison is situated) for an intimate champagne and caviar lounge.
The Line Austin is right by Congress Avenue Bridge for bat watching, the Ann and Roy Butler Hike-and-Bike trail for workouts, and downtown’s chicest restaurants and bars…but you can equally have a great time without leaving the hotel, too. Both the rooftop bar and the lobby host parties, especially during festival season, and their famous Vera-Cruz All Natural taco counter is forever packed with locals (tip: you can take them out to enjoy by the infinity pool). Interiors are a sultry nod to The Line’s previous heritage as a jazz club, with studio bulb lamps and plush velvet sofas dotted throughout, and every room has floor-to-ceiling windows to soak up pretty lake or shiny city vistas.
When you’ve hit the city hard and need some R&R, head 30 minutes west to Lake Austin Spa Resort, a luxury wellness retreat. It’s nestled in the Texas Hill Country, but don’t worry, you’ll be on cold-pressed juices and plant-based meals rather than chardonnay and brisket (though if you absolutely must, they do offer wine cruises). Activities such as kayaking, yoga, and meditation are all included as part of the package, but massages and treatments can be added for a fee. Rooms are either cottages or bungalows, and there are just 40 to choose from, meaning ample space to rest and play throughout this gorgeous 19-acre property.
