Sunset Over Big Sur and Dust in the Delta: The Real American Road Trip
The smell of mangrove swamps mixing with exhaust as you leave New Orleans on I-10 W is where it starts. You head across Lake Pontchartrain, the humidity clinging to the windows, and you realize this isn't just a drive; it's an expedition. I know this because I've driven 4,466 miles in 20 days across this country, and I've had plans scuppered by landslides and pandemics alike. American road trips offer unparalleled freedom, but they demand respect for the landscape and the logistics.
The Draw
There is a specific magic to the highways of the USA that you cannot replicate anywhere else. It is the contrast between travelling north up Highway 61 into the Mississippi Delta towards Chicago and swinging back north to visit the Wine Country of Napa and Sonoma. It is the difference between the Ohio River in Pomeroy, Ohio, on the Eastern Ohio River Scenic Byway and the Pacific Coast Highway in Big Sur.
I started my first American road trip in early October 2013, driving out of New Orleans in Louisiana towards Baton Rouge. That journey sparked a decade of exploration. In 2018, I went slightly mad and landed in New York at JFK, driving Coast To Coast across the United States of America before flying back to the UK from San Francisco airport. Whether you are chasing the history of the Gold Rush Trail on California Highway 49 or the neon nostalgia of the Blue Swallow Motel in Tucumcari, NM, the draw is the sheer scale of the terrain. You can go from the Sierra Nevada to the Mississippi Delta in a single vacation lifetime.
What to Expect
Let's be honest: the American highway system is vast, but it is vulnerable. You need to expect the unexpected. In 2016, I planned to head north after driving Tioga Road out of Yosemite then come back south down the Gold Rush Trail. But sometimes not everything goes as it should when doing road trips, does it?
The biggest risk is the weather. In 2023, I planned to do the whole of the West Coast of America, on the coast roads, from Seattle to San Diego. That plan fell by the wayside when Spring storms that year wiped out sections of Highway 1 in a series of massive landslides. The landslide at Paul's Slide was on a devastating scale not seen in years. Caltrans needed to shift nearly 500,000 cubic yards of material. Even by the end of July 2024, the Pacific Coast Highway was still closed in Big Sur due to two more landslides in March 2024.
Then there are the external factors. Because of Covid, any road trips and plans for 2020 were well and truly scuppered. 2021 also went by the wayside as America remained 'closed'. It never rains, but it pours. You must build flexibility into your itinerary. However, the highs outweigh the lows. I ended one journey by staying in San Jose and seeing the San Francisco 49ers play at Levi's Stadium. In mid-October 2019, I finally drove Route 66 from Chicago to Santa Monica. I finally saw them win, at last.
Insider Tips
Guidebooks will tell you to drive the Pacific Coast Highway, but they won't tell you about the specific moments that define the trip. Here is where you should actually point your rental car based on my logs.
For a true classic stop, pull into the Blue Swallow Motel in Tucumcari, NM. It is a relic of a safer, slower travel era. If you are in California, sunset at Asilomar State Beach on the Monterey Peninsula is non-negotiable, provided the road is open. For those seeking solitude, try US-50 W leaving Ely in Nevada to the west. It is remote and striking.
If you are exploring the north, drive SR-20 E west of Winthrop on The Cascade Loop. I did this in Fall 2023 as part of the Cascade Loop & Volcanic Legacy Scenic Byway road trip. For a touch of industrial history mixed with nature, stop at the Ohio River in Pomeroy, Ohio. And if you are driving through Texas, TX-208 S near Colorado City offers a landscape you won't find on the interstate. Remember, Highway 61 south of Leland in the Mississippi Delta is where the music history lives, while Highway 49 just south of the Yuba Pass in the Sierra Nevada offers the mountain grandeur.
Before You Go
Logistics can make or break these expeditions. Here is what you need to know to avoid having your plans fall by the wayside.
- Timing: Aim for Fall / Autumn. I did my Cross Country Expedition in October 2017 and my Route 66 drive in mid-October 2019. Spring storms are a major risk; they wiped out sections of Highway 1 in 2023 and caused damage in March 2024.
- Duration: Plan realistically. My Coast To Coast drive took 20 days to cover 4,466 miles. Do not rush the West Coast; I planned a trip from Seattle to San Diego that required significant time.
- Route Status: Check Caltrans reports constantly. As of July 2024, the Pacific Coast Highway was still closed in Big Sur. The Paul's Slide section had finally re-opened earlier in July, but further up the road there had been two more landslides.
- Getting There: Most trips start with a flight. I landed in New York at JFK for one trip and New Orleans for another. I flew back to the UK from San Francisco airport after the coast-to-coast drive.
- Flexibility: Have a backup plan. In 2022, my wife and I decided to go half way around the world to Hawaii on vacation instead when US plans became complicated. Sometimes the best road trip is the one you pivot to when the highways close.
